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Christmas conjures up images of a host
of culinary delights and treats to modern man; as one of the most
festive occasions in the contemporary calendar, the season is marked
by indulgences in food and diet that normally would be restricted or
frowned upon during other parts of the year. This is further
punctuated by a celebratory attitude that at this time permits (and
even encourages) a relaxation of one's usual mode of eating and
simply allows nearly everything that is desirable and tasty! It is a
time of eating, of feasting, of sharing repast's with friends and
neighbors, and of gaining the ubiquitous Christmas pounds!
Such festivity was true in Medieval
times as well, though there are striking differences in what was
eaten and served at Christmas time then as compared to now. Simply
put, there were not as many Christmas-specific foods as there are
now; mankind feasted heartily, but on foods and recipes that also
were available and popular during the rest of the year - these were
produced in finer quality and eaten in greater amounts at this time,
but there was not a specific and detailed menu on what should or
should not be eaten at Christmas. Much of the festivity that revolved
around food seemed to be not in what was being offered, but in how it
was offered, the quantities that were available, and in the act of
sharing a meal and eating together. Several dishes of healthy, tasty
food and ale to last a day, along with fuel for cooking and warmth,
and candles to light the long evening, was an honored and acceptable
gift from the lord to his villeins. In some recorded cases, the gift
of food for the day was as simple as a loaf of bread, ale to drink,
and some firewood. Many lords would invite their workers and serfs to
the manor for Christmas dinner; in most cases, though, the food,
serving utensils, and even the fuel for cooking were usually provided
by the villeins themselves. It seems the real spirit of the moment
was seen in the communal exchange of food and the enjoyment of
feasting with friends in front of the burning Yule Log of the lord's
hearth.
There are some food rules to
remember when composing an authentic Medieval feast; as the days
leading up to Christmas were the fast, or fish-days of Advent, fish
was eaten in great quantities up to and including Christmas Eve.
(This, therefore, usually meant that fish was not considered an
appropriate food for the post-Advent Christmas period; one would be
considered a poor or offensive host to offer fish for a Christmas
meal!) The practice of serving fish up until Christmas Day survives
enthusiastically today as the modern Italian-American tradition of a
large and extravagant Christmas Eve seafood dinner.
And there were a few foods did
became associated with Christmas at this time: the Boar's Head, which
still today holds great connotations of Yule, and Plum Pudding &
Mincemeat Pie, two treats also contemporarily linked with the
holiday. However, these foods were also quite common during the rest
of the year; the Boar's Head was found at many great dinners, being
considered an honored dish at all times. Plum Pudding would have been
eaten whenever economy and season dictated. And Mincemeat Pie (made
with real meat) was simply yet another Medieval-style meat pie with a
heavy dried fruit base. Still, the Medieval population found these
dishes particularly appealing at Christmas, and the Boar's Head was
considered so standard that if a real one could not be acquired, a
faux presentation made of cake or other foods was more than
acceptable.
By Medieval times, the game of the
Bean King or Mock King was old enough to be considered
"ancient." This was a cake or a loaf of bread which had
hidden in it a small object, such as a bean. Whoever found the bean
in their portion was proclaimed the Bean King, and presided as a
humorous ruler over the Christmas festivities. In some cultures the
Bean cake was shaped like a crown and was associated with the Three
Wise Kings.
---------- A Christmas Eve dinner
and A Christmas Day dinner ----------
The Advent fast, prohibiting meat,
chicken, milk, cheese, butter, etc. (i.e., virtually all animal
products), and lasting a time period that included the four Sundays
preceding Yule, was THE primary motivation for the festal consumption
of food during a Medieval Christmas. This simple fact should always
be kept in mind when planning a Medieval feast in an authentic
manner. Christmas itself ran from Christmas Day up through Epiphany,
or Twelfth Day (January 6). The rules and standards of food at
Christmas time lasted for this entire 12 day period.
A Christmas Eve dinner should be
composed of Medieval dishes that are for fish-days, fast-days, Ember
days, and for Lent. (Ember Days were four significant fast-days held
during Lent, just after Pentecost, September, and in December during
Advent.) These sorts of recipes are usually clearly denoted in
Medieval cooking manuscripts, and can be found throughout the recipe
sections of A
Boke of Gode Cookery. Exotic and varied viands of fish &
seafood should dominate: grilled, fried, roasted, baked fish, etc.
with a variety of sauces; oysters, mussels, crabs, lobster, clams,
and assorted shellfish (such as periwinkles) are very acceptable and
can be prepared in a multitude of ways. Almond
milk should be the ingredient used for sauces, as it was the main
substitute for milk during a fast. Fried foods are prepared in nut
oils (see: Oils)
rather than animal fats.
Medieval cooks came up with a
variety of ways to circumvent the restrictions of a fast-day: mock
cheese was made out of fish and almond milk, fish was made to taste
like meat, etc. And some people relied on extremes in common food
beliefs to see them through their fast: beaver tail (a high source of
fat & protein) was acceptable as the beaver lived in water, like
a fish; ordinary geese were often identified as being the mythical Barnacle
Goose by both sellers and consumers alike. The Barnacle Goose,
being a product of the ocean, was not a true land-goose and therefore
was not restricted. Therefore, if the cook or host of a Christmas Eve
dinner wishes to serve goose, it may be done so, but only in the
honest faith that it is a true Barnacle Goose that is being served!
(Imagine a platter of Barnacle Goose surrounded by oysters, mussels,
clams, etc. Yum!)
Bread, cheese, ale, & wine
should be included with the foods of both a Christmas Eve or a
Christmas Day dinner.
A Medieval Christmas Day dinner
could be composed of rich and extravagant dishes, heavy with meat and
sweets, and laden with delicacies and treats; or, an equally
authentic way to eat would be to have simple but hearty dishes like
stewed chicken or beef, or pork, ham or bacon served with mustard,
along with cheese, bread and ale. The choice is yours, as was our
Medieval predecessors. Certainly, the Boar's Head should be included
in any large dinner or party, whether real or made of cake, as well
as Plum Pudding, Mincemeat Pie, and such treats as gingerbread,
spiced wines, etc. Venison was a popular meat at Christmas, and
possibly represented about 1/4 of all meat eaten at that time,
according to household records. Goose, duck, hen, and an enormous
range of fowl & poultry served in or with a variety of sauces;
dishes of beef, pork, & rabbit prepared in numerous ways; rich
soups and thick pottages and stews; a plethora of sweets and desserts
- the list of acceptable foods that are authentic, delectable, and
highly appropriate for a Christmas Feast would be a long one! Any
documented, authentic recipe found in A
Boke of Gode Cookery which is not intended as a fast-day item
would be more than suitable.
And don't forget about the Bean
Cake! More about it HERE.
Decorating the home with greenery
during the holiday has been a custom since the Roman festival of
Saturnalia, and has been documented as having occurred in London as
early as the 12th century. The Medieval dinner table or dining hall
can be suitably garnished with holly, evergreen, etc., just like
today.
Singing carols at a Christmas dinner
was such an expected activity that paid carolers and minstrels were
often included in the budgets of large feasts. Other entertainments,
such as masques and mummery, were also very common.
To compose your Christmas feast menu
in a Medieval manner, please visit Messe
It Forth.
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